- For flare of side seam on this dress I drew a line half way between the straighter and more flared styles. Make a tissue copy of dress front and dress back using this in the middle line. Then draw a line cross dress front 1-2 (depending on size) below armhole. [Picture 1] Do the same for dress back. [picture 2] Cut on lines.
- Tape dress front skirt to another piece of tissue paper so you can add 3 3/4 to 4 3/4 to the width of skirt. [Picture 3] At bottom of skirt where you added on, place a plate or saucer to draw around to make this curve. [Picture 4]
- Then add a 1/4 seam allowance to bottom of yoke pieces and top of skirt pieces. Cut out front and back yokes, 1 each from fabric and 1 each from lining fabric. Cut out skirt back, 1 each from fabric and lining fabric. Cut out skirt fronts, NOT on the fold, so you will have two each from the fabric and lining.
- Stitch front yoke to front yoke lining at top. Trim seam, turn to right side and press. Do the same thing for yoke back. Stitch front yoke to back yoke at underarm making a plain seam. Press open.
- Stitch front skirts to back skirt making plain seams and press open. Do the same thing for skirt lining. Place skirt and skirt lining with right sides together and stitch down front, around curve, across bottom, around other curve and up the other front. Trim seam, turn to right side and press.
- Holding yoke lining out of the way, pin right side of skirt to right side of yoke. Match center back and side seams. On skirt front pin left hand side down first to yoke. Then place right hand side down and pin. The overlap at dress front will be about 7 to 9 depending on the size.. Stitch skirt to yoke. Trim seam. Turn under lining and whip at seamline.
- Measure around dress at this seam line and cut a bias strip from a third fabric 1 longer than this measurement and 1 3/4 - 2 wide. Fold in half and stitch a point at one end and then stitch the length of strip. Trim, turn and press. Place this bias tube on top of seam and top stitch in place.
- Make another bias tube for bow. Cut 2 1/2 wide by 10 - 12 long. Stitch, trim and turn tube. Press with seam at center back. Fold raw ends together and whip together. Cut a bow center 1 3/4 by 1 3/4. Stitch making a tube. Trim, turn and press. Wrap around center of bow and tack in place. Sew bow to dress.
Back to Mix and Match Main Page